Queensland, Australia - part III
October 2023 Itinerary: Girraween Environmental Lodge and Girraween National Park
O'Reilly's Rainforest Retreat and Lamington National Park
Michaelmas Cay, Great Barrier Reef
Cassowary House, Kuranda and Baron Gorge National Park
Daintree River and Rainforest (boardwalks and Mossman Gorge)
Sweetwater Lodge, Julatten
Atheron Tablelands: Lake Eacham, Hasties Swamp, Curtain Fig Tree, Mount Hypipamee, Yungaburra
As much as I enjoyed our time at Sweetwater - both the wildlife and the comfort, it was time to move southward again to the:
Atherton Tablelands
On the way to our next night's stay, we stopped or tried to stop at the Big Mitchell Creek Reserve, which we found fenced off with large "no trespassing" signs. From a roadside memorial, we tried to peer into the large lake, getting a few glimpses of distant pelicans, herons and egrets in the tall marsh reeds.
When talking to the other guests at Sweetwater, we learned of an active bower in the Mareeba cemetery. Since it was on our way, we stopped at the cemetery and thought it wouldn't be too hard to find the bower on our own. The cemetery was adjacent to the town's landfill, but had a surprising amount of bird activity. The trees between the cemetery and the landfill were busy with Scaly-breasted Lorikeets, Rainbow Bee-eaters, Magpie-lark, Noisy Friarbird, and Blue-faced Honeyeaters. We walked the cemetery grounds, staying mostly around the edges near the vegetation in search of the bower. After wandering half of the cemetery, Tor asked the groundskeepers if they had seen the bower (seemed like they would know about the large structure). While eager and full of suggestions, they weren't very helpful. In the end, Tor spotted the impressive bower under a bush next to the busy road. The walls of the bower were densely packed sticks neatly arranged with a narrow open alley in the middle. The bower was decorated with a lot of trash (the benefit of being close to a dump), but also a few organic finds, such as peppers, white rocks (likely from a grave), and shells (perhaps also stolen off graves). Broken glass bottle tops, plastic bottle tops, and chalk created a path of white/translucences to the alleyway of the bower. Broken toys of grays, reds, and pinks added touches of colors around the walls of the bower. The Great Bowerbird was at his bower when we approached, but it flew off. We sat down a distance away from the bower for the bird to return. It returned shortly with another trash treasure in tow. We watched the bird tend to its display ground by removing fallen leaves, straightening a few sticks, and repositioning a few of its decorations. As we walked away from the bower, we saw one of the groundskeepers. He asked if we found the bower and we confirmed that we did. He then proceeded to say the bowerbirds were "funny birds with their decorating and funny rituals." Meanwhile we proceeded to walk by row upon row of glass and brick mausoleums decorated inside with plastic flowers, pictures, and religious symbols. I couldn't help but laugh at the irony of his comment. At least, the bowerbirds have enough sense to celebrate living!
We stopped briefly at a nearby park in Mareeba for lunch. The park wasn't much in terms of habitat, but it still held a good number of birds. Pacific Black Ducks dabbled in the ponds, while Royal Spoonbills, Australia White Ibis, and Pacific Heron probed the shallows. Honeyeaters, Little Friarbiard, and Lorikeets fed in the everpresent bottlebrush trees.
Crater Lake Cottages
For the next couple of nights, we stayed near the rainforest-surrounded Lake Eacham of the Crater Lakes National Park. For the first nights, we stayed at Crater Lake Cottages. Upon checking in at reception, the receptionist went to the backroom and returned with a basket containing our included breakfast. He pointed out the eggs, butter, bread, bananas, muesli, milk, live mealworms, and rabbit pellets. The last two were for feeding the birds and critters at our cottage. I was surprised and excited at the prospect of feeding these rainforest birds that we have been so elusive in our travels so far.
As we pulled up to our cottage (which was nautical themed), Musky Kangaroo-rats and Red-legged Pademelons were searching the grounds for food. Numerous brushturkeys also roamed around, taking the time to chase after any other brushturkey who got in their territories. From the tall rainforest surrounding our cottage, we could hear catbirds and riflebirds calling. The next couple of days, we spent hours on the deck holding out mealworms for the Lewin's, Macleay's, and Bridled Honeyeaters to snatch up. Eastern Whipbirds also came with their young to enjoy the bounty. The shyer Gray-headed Robin would only take mealworms left on the deck post. Similarly the Green Catbirds waited for banana pieces to be left on the post before coming in for a bite. The star of the feeding frenzy were the Victoria's Riflebirds. The females were not shy about expecting mealworms from us, but the males generally were more standoffish. The males kept their distance or did not want to land on our hands for a mealworm. Before our stay at Crater Lake Cottages, our best view of the male riflebird was from a distance without being able to admire the iridescence of their black feathers. Up close to the male Victoria's Riflebird, we were able to admire the turquoise of their crowns and throats, the shimmery chevron patterns on their backs, the bright yellow of their mouths, and the impossibly gray turn to multicolor magic in their flanks. Also thrilling was witnessing the males display to the females. On several occasions, we watched a male actively pursue a female (who wasn't interested). We also saw males display in the open to any females passing by. The males fluffed out their plumage and spread their wings above their heads, while open-mouthed (to display their yellow) moved their heads side to side to maximize the light play across their iridescence. It was an impressive display even under the darkness of the rainforest canopy.
The cottage itself was pleasant to stay in - a stand-alone complete unit with kitchen, bathroom, bedroom and living area. For us, the deck and rainforest critters were the highlight of the cottages. At precisely 6:40 PM every evening, a continuous and piercing sound of cicadas filled the rainforest air. The noisy chorus only lasted for a few minutes (reminiscent of what we experienced in Borneo). It was quite different from our previous nights in Queensland, which have been largely devoid of insect noise. When the cicadas stopped, we could hear a distant Sooty Owl calling. At night, we walked down the road to Lake Eacham. A track through the rainforest took us to the lake. In the forest, we spotted another Leaf-tailed Gecko, Bandicoots, and a high up possum with a baby on its back. Cane Toads were also present and seemed more numerous here than at previous places. We were both taken aback at the sight of several White-tailed Giant Rats. Easily 2 feet in length, those hefty Giant Rats could give a Norwegian rat a run for its money.
During the day, we also walked the circular track around Lake Eacham. The waters of the lake were an amazing aqua blue. A saw-shelled turtle poked its head up for a breath. Many people visit the lake to swim in it (are you surprised by now - any body of water without a crocodile will have an Aussie or 15 in it). The track around the lake through the rainforest is also enjoyable. We encountered a few other birders along the way. Despite the lack of the Merlin app and the inadequacies of Birdly, we still enjoyed the glimpses of birds we could see in the high rainforest canopy. Golden Whistler, Black-faced Monarch, and a Yellow-breasted Boatbill flitted around the foliage. We found a Tooth-billed Bowerbird sitting above its bower by following its mimicry song. From the track (which isn't easy in a densely foliaged rainforest), we got a clear view of it singing on a branch. Below the bird, its bower was a cleaned circular patch of ground with fresh green leaves turned upside down. Nearby along the track, we heard 3 other bowerbirds singing. Down the track, we encountered a large birding tour group trying to glimpse another bowerbird through the foliage.
While staying at Lake Eacham, we also drove to a few local sights in the area,
Hastings Swamp National Park
The Hastings Swamp had a 2-story blind where we watched large numbers of Plumed and Wandering Whistling Ducks gather. Royal Spoonbills swept their bills through the muddy waters. Whistling Kites soared overhead. Eurasian coots, Comb-crested Jacana, Pied Stilts, and Purple Swamphens picked along the shallows of the muddy edge. A couple of Nankeen Night-herons roosted in the trees above the blind. After receiving a tip from an Australian couple who was visiting the area and new to birding, we saw a cluster of Bent-winged Bats roosting in the corners of the blinds. These microbats were very small, especially compared to the flying foxes we had been seeing on the trip. While in the blind, a local Australian entered with an air of confidence and no humility. He proceeded to check off all the birds that were in the swamp and point out any that we might have missed (which I admit, I might not have seen the night-herons without him). He asked Tor if he'd seen platypus yet, then recommended Peterson Creek for loads of platypus and tree kangaroos.
Peterson Creek, Yungaburra
We stop at the Platypus viewing area in Yungaburra right off the main highway. While walking through the culvert under the highway, we spotted a platypus feeding in the water. It swam right by us up the creek to feed along the muddy bank on the other side of the culvert. The track that used to go along Peterson Creek was closed off. From signs and the petition, not all of Peterson Creek is public property. Some private landowners who have creekside property have cut off access for a continuous track. Some locals were trying to fight back to have continuous public access. We drove up through town to access the rest of the creek and the track. At the other access point, there were more people milling about looking for platypus and maybe birds. We walked around the track a little, before heading north up the creek, where the track ran for a longer distance and we were able to get away from the crowds. We looked for Tree Kangaroos, but failed. There was another large colony of Spectacled Flying Foxes. We could hear their baby-like cries from a great distance. Birds were also present along the creek: White-breasted Cuckoo-shrike, Pale-yellow Robin, and Scarlet Myomezla. High above several White-throated Needletails cut through the air. In the paddocks adjacent to the track, a group of Agile Wallabies lay in the grass. Returning down the trail, we saw a large group of people gathered on the bank of the creek. A platypus was swimming in the creek and feeding on the muddy bank. It swept its bill across the mud and filtered out water and mud to grid any invertebrates it swept up. The platypus continued to feed despite the growing number of tourists watching it. The large tour group quickly moved on, but we continued to watch the odd creature feed in the creek.
Curtain Fig Tree
We made a brief stop at the Curtain Fig Tree National Park. A short boardwalk trail circled around this impressively massive fig tree. Many tendredles of fig vines draped down to the forest floor below. It's well worth the look and there were a few birds in the late afternoon when we visited.
Malanda Falls
Don't be surprised by the half-naked Aussies in this area. Yes, there's another place for the locals to swim. The waterfall itself wasn't encased in pavement, but everything around it was. There were large platforms on each side with a concrete dam to form a pool below the waterwall. Above the falls and across the road was a short track through some soaring trees. The creek runs freely through this part of the forest. This patch of forest was also a good place to spot Tree Kangaroo, if you were lucky, which we were not. We did, however, see a Lemuroid Ringtail Possum in the crook of a thin tree.
Bromfield Swamp Platform
Also worth a short visit, this platform overlooks a swampy depression surrounded by cow and farm lands. We needed to take out the scope to view the birds below, even then it was impossible to distinguish what peep was probing around in the mud. We did see 2 Sarus Cranes and Cattle Egrets with the cows. There were also a number of Comb-crested Jacanas feeding in the shallow ponds.
Mount Hypipamee National Park
A short trail took us to a hard to describe crater in the middle of the rainforest. It's even harder to adequately capture in a picture. The crater is a sheer drop off of almost 200 feet into a lake. The walls of the crater are flat rock faces with a few trees and bushes trying to survive in the cracks. Away from the crater, another track in the park goes down to the headwaters of the Barron River - a noisy little creek babbled away through the rainforest. A short waterfall cascaded down a dark rockwall face. Of course, the obligatory half-naked Aussies were under the falls in the swimming hole created by a concrete dam.
Tinaroo Lake and surrounding agriculture fields
From a tip of another birder we had crossed paths with at Lake Eacham and then at Mt Hypipamee, we drove out toward Tinaroo Lake to view the cane fields that surrounded the area. There we spotted many Black Kites, Sarus Cranes, and a few Brogla. Giving their guttural calls, the cranes flew overhead in great numbers and fed in the harvested fields with Sulphur-crested Cockatoos and Masked Lapwings.
Chambers Lake Rainforest Lodge
For our last night on the Atherton Tablelands, we dined at the Yungaburra pizza parlor, which oddly had Bavarian decor complete with giant cow bells hanging on the wall. Also for our final night at Lake Eacham, we moved to Chambers Lake Rainforest Lodge, which was literally down the road from Crater Lake Cottages. When I had originally planned the trip, this lodge kept coming up on bird tour itineraries. I had originally wanted to stay 3 nights at this lodge, but it was booked for the first 2 nights we were in the area. So I "settled" for Crater Lakes Cottage and took the 1 night at Chambers Lake. I was surprised at Chambers Lake when we arrived. The grounds were manicured to more British lawn and planted beds standards. Bromeliads overflowed from the planters in front of the main office. The lodge consisted of a series of block housing - more hotel-like. Our room was very bland - like a ready to move in/furnished bachelor pad or for a new divorcee. Two lazy boy recliners sat in front of a TV in the living area. The off-white fabric hardly stood out from the bare white walls in the flickering fluorescent tube lighting. A simple kitchen lined the wall. In back was the bedroom (with at least a few pictures on the wall) and small bathroom. There was a slight mustiness in the air similar to remote cabins we've stayed in the deep humid rainforest of Ecuador. But here the mildew smell seemed out of place in a place with electricity and seals on the doors. I quickly realized that the reason this lodge was popular with bird tour groups is that it can accomodate a large group of strangerfs. Also the price is low compared to the Crater Lake Cottages. There weren't very many cottages at Crater Lake Cottages, and likely not enough for a tour group of 12 or more.
Chamber Lake Rainforest Lodge did have positives. At night, a sugary goo was smeared on two trees at a viewing platform. We watched Sugar Gliders and Striped Possum come in to lick the sugar. Bandicoots and mice also feasted on the sap when it fell to the ground. At night we also heard a Sooty Owl and a Southern Boobook calling in the distance. There was also a circular track around the lodge that was very birdy in the morning. The openness of the secondary rainforest allowed us to see White-headed Pigeon, Yellow-breasted Boatbill, Pied Monarch, a calling male Victoria's Riflebird, and Yellow Thornbill.
We returned to Cairns after our stay at Lake Eacham. The road east down from the Tablelands was surprisingly long, windy and descended a great height. It did not feel that way entering the Tablelands from the north. Before catching our flight back to Brisbane, we stopped at the Mangrove Boardwalk right outside of the airport. The shade of the mangrove forest offered little relief during the heat of the afternoon. It was enjoyable walking through the environment considering it was adjacent to the airport. Different species of mangrove grew in various microhabitats of the mudflats depending on the depth of the mud and amount of water. A Sacred Kingfisher called out unseen from the forest and a Shining Flycatcher hunted from the mangrove roots.
We flew from Cairns leaving the wet tropics behind and spent a night in a hotel next to the Brisbane airport. The following morning we said goodbye to Queensland, happy to have had a great trip with so many wonderful adventures and new birds added to the life list. In between restless bouts of sleep on the long flight home, I wondered where our next adventure would take us.