Ecuador, South America
December 2007

    Itinerary:
    Quito
    Pañacocha
    Jatuncocha, Parque Nacional Yasuní
    Cocaya
    Lagartococha

Synopsis

December 21st
    The next morning it was raining again so we had breakfast at the hotel.  Tor and I had to depart from Paola, Brock, and Brett at this point.  They would continue on their travels in Ecuador – down to the southern tip.  Tor and I had to head back to Quito to catch our flight back.
    We said our goodbyes at the Coca airport.  Our flight was delayed (again) so we didn’t get into Quito until around 1PM.  We checked into La Casa Sol, which was a nice enough hotel – cute with a lot of charm.  In Quito, we wandered around, the Marsical District, new town, or what we called Gringoville.  A lot of it was cleaned up and redone to accommodate the tourists.  There were also a lot of police in bulletproof vest on almost every street – perhaps to help keep crime down, though I’ve read that crime was worse in the new town area. 
    Wandering around Quito, we found a big store that was a combination clothes/food/decorations/stuff/etc store, so we could stock up on Noggy, Plops (candy) and Avena Oatmeal Drink, things that Paola introduced us to.
    We also walked to the Mercado near the Marsical District.  It was fun looking at what trinkets and clothes they were selling.  We picked up some souvenirs and gifts to take home.  There were also a lot of little girls begging for money – they’d basically stand in front of you or keep themselves in front of you, hold up their hand, and without looking at you repeatedly ask for money.
For dinner, we went to a restaurant near our hotel that served “Ecuadorian” food.  It was okay, but not nearly as good as the $2 meals at Pañacocha or our meals while camping.  We tried the Kuy or guinea pig.  I didn’t like it – it was super greasy meat with a weird after taste.  At least I tried something new.  And we got to have juice with our meal.

December 22nd
    We had one full day in Quito, so we decided to walk to old town and check out the churches.  It was a nice enough walk through town without many people out during the morning.  Once we reached the San Augustin church, the crowds of people seemed to show up.  There was a steady stream of people – we tried to figure out what they were doing – whether it was coming out of church, taking a Sunday walk, or doing some Christmas shopping, there were a lot of people in the streets.  There were many shows (of some entertaining variety) going on at most of the plazas.
    We walked around old town going to the Plaza Grande and Plaza San Francisco eventually making our way toward the Panecillo.  I had read about the Panecillo, which was a large Virgin Mary statue on top of a hill that provided a good lookout over all of Quito. I read that walking up the hill was a bad idea – since people would try to take advantage of any tourist as they panted and climbed their way to the top.  However, Tor wasn’t convinced when I told him and wanted to walk it anyway. 
As we walked up the first steps to the Panecillo, we saw a small girl scooting on her butt down the sloped sidewalk.  When she saw us, she got up and told us not to walk up the hill, pointing to Tor’s camera; instead she told us to take a taxi or a bus.  This was enough to change Tor’s mind, so after waving down a taxi, we get up to the top of the Panecillo.
    At the Panecillo, we can see over the city and a few of the mountains that are not covered by the clouds.  I could imagine it’s quite spectacular on a clear day.  Still we enjoy the view.  There were a few vendors set up on top of the hill, several people dressed up for the tourists: couple of people dressed as Santa, one dressed as Barney (the purple dinosaur), and a couple of dressed up Alpacas.  On a stage, there was another show of some sort going on.
    We decided to walk back down from the hill (I’ve read it’s better than walking up, since you won’t be tired), but we waited for an Ecuadorian woman with five kids to follow behind as our “cover.”  The stairs and path wandered through some questionable areas and behind houses.  A group of men were sitting where the stairs cross a street; we stuck close to the kids until they break away to play on a playground.  But we were close enough and made it safely down to the streets.
    Back on the streets, we made our way to the Basilica – a church that a lot of people deem ugly.  First we stopped at an Ecuadorian restaurant chain called Ceviche, where the ceviche was disappointedly bad, but at least we both got guanábana juice with our meal.
We continued to the Basilica, which was interesting to say the least – there were many gargoyles, but not of the typical nature.  There were gargoyles of alpacas, iguanas, boobies, peacocks, sheep, etc., a large menagerie of animals.  I could see why people don’t like it – one part of the church was built in the true gothic style, with real gargoyles and real stone, but the majority of it was built out of concrete and weird animals. 
    Before heading back to the hotel, we stopped in a park and browsed through the vendors and artists that were set up.  One of the things I liked about Quito was the many stores that were crammed into the first level of buildings – they looked like they should be garages, but it was an entire grocery, shoe, clothes store or restaurant. 
    For our second night in Quito, we had to switch hotels since the Casa Sol didn’t have room for us.  They sent us across the street to the Jardin del Sol, which was an adequate hostel, though didn’t have any charm or character. 
We had dinner at another restaurant down the street called Boca del Lobo (Mouth of the Wolf) and had good-enough food.

December 23rd
    Our travel day back was long and tiring.  Luckily all our flights were on time.  There was plenty of time to reflect on the trip and think about our next venture to Ecuador.

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Pictures

	Rio Napo was a lot higher with the rains.
	End of the trip as the group, as Tor and I have to head back.

	From Coca
	To Quito

The Mercado near New Town

	Shared sentiments...
	Church of San Augustin

Plaza Grande

	Busy streets of Old Town
	Plaza de San Francisco
	Panecillo

	View from the Panecillo

	The Basilica
	Odd gargoyles of various animals are in pairs along the roof tops.

Armadillo gargoyles

Doors of the Basilica

	This part of the Basilica was done in the traditional style - with real stone and real gargoyles.

                                      
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Bird List

common name	scientific name		place seen	Comments
Neotropic Cormorant	Phalacrocorax brasilianus		L	large flocks on the lagoon
Anhinga	Anhinga anhinga
Cocoi Heron	Ardea cocoi		N, J, AC, L
Great Egret	Ardea alba		G, N, J, AC, L
Little Blue Heron	Egretta caerulea		Y, L
Snowy Egret	Egretta thula		N, J, L
Cattle Egret	Bubulcus ibis		N, J, L
Striated Heron	Butorides striata		N, P, J, Y, AC, L
Agami Heron	Agamia agami		AC	1
Black-crowned Night-Heron	Nycticorax nycticorax		P, L
Rufescent Tiger-Heron	Tigrisoma lineatum		L, J
Wood Stork	Mycteria americana		L	1
Horned Screamer	Anhima cornuta		L (heard)
Muscovy Duck	Cairina moschata		J, L
Black Vulture	Coragyps atratus		everywhere
Turkey Vulture	Cathartes aura		G
Greater Yellow-headed Vulture	Cathartes melambrotus		everywhere
Osprey	Pandion haliaetus		N, J, Y, L
Swallow-tailed Kite	Elanoides forficatus		P, Y
Plumbeous Kite	Ictinia plumbea		AC	2
Black-collared Hawk	Busarellus nigricollis		L	1
Yellow-headed Caracara	Milvago chimachima		NR
Bat Falcon	Falco rufigularis		L	1
Spix's Guan	Penelope jacquacu		P, L (heard)	likes to call from the treetops
Hoatzin	Opisthocomus hoazin		P, J, AC, L
Sungrebe	Heliornis fulica		L	1
Wattled Jacana	Jacana jacana		J, L
Pied Lapwing	Vanellus cayanus		P, AC
Southern Lapwing	Vanellus chilensis		L	2 flying around near the water
Spotted Sandpiper	Actitis macularius		N, AC
Yellow-billed Tern	Sternula superciliaris		N, J, L
Large-billed Tern	Phaetusa simplex		N
Rock Pigeon	Columba livia		G, Q
Plumbeous Pigeon	Patagioenas plumbea		P, J, L
Ruddy Pigeon	Patagioenas subvinacea		P, J, L
Eared Dove	Zenaida auriculata		Q
Blue-and-yellow Macaw	Ara ararauna		Y, L
Scarlet Macaw	Ara macao		L	2
Chestnut-fronted Macaw	Ara severus		P, J
White-eyed Parakeet	Aratinga leucophthalma		L
Blue-winged Parrotlet	Forpus xanthopterygius		L
Dusky-billed Parrotlet	Forpus sclateri		L
Scarlet-shouldered Parrotlet	Touit huetii		L
Orange-cheeked Parrot	Pionopsitta barrabandi		L
Blue-headed Parrot	Pionus menstruus		J, L
Festive Parrot	Amazona festiva		L
Yellow-crowned Parrot	Amazona ochrocephala		J, L
Orange-winged Parrot	Amazona amazonica		J, L
Mealy Parrot	Amazona farinosa		J, L
Squirrel Cuckoo	Piaya cayana		L	1
Greater Ani	Crotophaga major		N, P, J, AC, L
Smooth-billed Ani	Crotophaga ani		C, N
Tropical Screech-Owl	Megascops choliba		J, AC (heard only)
Common Potoo	Nyctibius griseus		AC, L (heard only)
Nacunda Nighthawk	Podager nacunda		P, J
Pauraque	Nyctidromus albicollis		J, L
White-collared Swift	Streptoprocne zonaris		P
Short-tailed Swift	Chaetura brachyura		AC	building a mud nest on a log in the river
Fork-tailed Palm-Swift	Tachornis squamata		P, J, L
Rufous-breasted Hermit	Glaucis hirsutus		AC
White-necked Jacobin	Florisuga mellivora		J
Blue-chinned Sapphire	Chlorostilbon notatus		L
Ringed Kingfisher	Ceryle torquatus		N, P, J, AC, L
Amazon Kingfisher	Chloroceryle amazona		P, J, L
Green Kingfisher	Chloroceryle americana		L
American Pygmy Kingfisher	Chloroceryle aenea		P, L
Black-fronted Nunbird	Monasa nigrifrons		P, J, L
Swallow-winged Puffbird	Chelidoptera tenebrosa		N
Cuvier's Toucan	Ramphastos cuvieri		J, L
Yellow-tufted Woodpecker	Melanerpes cruentatus		P, Y
Lineated Woodpecker	Dryocopus lineatus		L
Long-billed Woodcreeper	Nasica longirostris		AC	1
White-browed Purpletuft	Iodopleura isabellae		L	3
Screaming Piha	Lipaugus vociferans		Y, AC (heard only)
Bare-necked Fruitcrow	Gymnoderus foetidus		L
Blue-backed Manakin	Chiroxiphia pareola		J	1 female
White-lored Tyrannulet	Ornithion inerme		AC	1
Spotted Tody-Flycatcher	Todirostrum maculatum		NR	1
Vermilion Flycatcher	Pyrocephalus rubinus		G
Drab Water-Tyrant	Ochthornis littoralis		N, P, AC	usually in pairs along river side
Piratic Flycatcher	Legatus leucophaius		P
Social Flycatcher	Myiozetetes similis		P, J, AC, L
Dusky-chested Flycatcher	Myiozetetes luteiventris		NR
Great Kiskadee	Pitangus sulphuratus		C, N
Lesser Kiskadee	Philohydor lictor		N, P, J, AC, L	common along water ways
Tropical Kingbird	Tyrannus melancholicus		G, C
Black-tailed Tityra	Tityra cayana		P, J, L
White-winged Swallow	Tachycineta albiventer		everywhere
Gray-breasted Martin	Progne chalybea		G, C
Brown-chested Martin	Progne tapera		L
White-banded Swallow	Atticora fasciata		P, AC
Southern Rough-winged Swallow	Stelgidopteryx ruficollis		AC
Black-capped Donacobius	Donacobius atricapilla		P, L
House Wren	Troglodytes aedon		NR
Great Thrush	Turdus fuscater		Q
Black-billed Thrush	Turdus ignobilis		C, N, P, L
Violaceous Jay	Cyanocorax violaceus		P, L
Masked Crimson Tanager	Ramphocelus nigrogularis		Y, NR
Silver-beaked Tanager	Ramphocelus carbo		NR, Y
Blue-gray Tanager	Thraupis episcopus		NR, C, Y
Paradise Tanager	Tangara chilensis		Y
Chestnut-bellied Seedeater	Sporophila castaneiventris		NR
Band-tailed Seedeater	Catamenia analis		Q	at the Panecillo
Red-capped Cardinal	Paroaria gularis		P, Y, AC, L	usually in 2s or 3 along water ways
Rufous-collared Sparrow	Zonotrichia capensis		Q
Great-tailed Grackle	Quiscalus mexicanus		G
Giant Cowbird	Molothrus oryzivorus		N	traveling in large groups
Yellow-rumped Cacique	Cacicus cela		everywhere
Olive Oropendola	Psarocolius bifasciatus		everywhere

Places
G = Guayaquil airport
C = Coca
N = Rio Napo: river, lowland rainforest
P = Pañacocha: lowland rainforest
NR = Nuevo Rocafuerte: small town surrounded by rainforest
J = Jatuncocha, Parque Nacional Yasuní: lagoon, lowland rainforest
Y = Parque Nacional Yasuní
C = Rio Aguarico, Rio Cocaya: cursed flooded lowland rainforest
L = Lagartococha, Ecuador/Peru: lagoons, lowland rainforest
Q = Quito: big city, parks

Critter List

Capybara	Hydrochaeris hydrochaeris		Y
smell of peccari			Y
night monkey ?			P
Olingo	Bassaricyon gabbii		J
Red Howler Monkey	Alouatta seniculus		P
Common Squirrel Monkey	Saimiri sciureus		L
White-bellied Spider Monkey	Ateles belzebuth		L
Equatorial Saki	Pithecia aequatorialis		L
Giant Otter	Pteronura brasiliensis		J
Gray Dolphin (tucuxi)	Sotalia fluviatilis		J
Pink Dolphin (boutu)	Inia geoffrensis		J, L
bats - everywhere big and small
Amazon River Turtle	Podocnemis unifilis		N, J
Black Caiman	Caiman niger		J, L
Green Parrot Snake	Leptophis ahaetulla		Y
Fer-de-Lance	Bothrops atrox		C, L
Rocket Frog	Alobates sp.		L
Frog	Hypsiboas calcaratus		P
Toad	Dendrophryniscus minutus		P, C
Anole	Plica sp.		C
Tree Frog	Osteocephalus taurinus		L
Marine Toad	Rhinella marinus		L
Map Tree Frog	Hypsiboas geographicus		L
Spotted Leaf Mimic Toad	Rhinella dapsilis		L

Information

La Casa Sol, hostel in Quito, quaint, charming, located in New Town
Hostal Jardin del Sol, hostel in Quito, sufficent, located in New Town
Amazonas Hosteria, hostel in Coca, sufficent, cheap
Pañacocha, a small river that feeds into the Rio Napo
Jatuncocha, the largest lake in the Parque Nacional Yasuní
Rio Cocaya, a small river that feeds into the Rio Aguarico
Lagartococha, river that feeds into the Rio Aguarico

There's not a lot of offical (or unoffical) information on the internet about these place that we've traveled to.

These pages are dedicated to Brock, Brett, and of course Paola.  Without them, this trip would literally be impossible.  We are forever thankful for this opportunity of a life time.

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