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Costa Rica Trip:
November 2003 Itinerary: Tortuga Island Rara Avis Lodge Selva Verde Lodge Synopsis For our second trip to Costa Rica, we decided to take the red-eye flight and try to sleep our way in. Unfortunately, it always seemed like a better idea than it actually turned out. After all the stress and bustle of the flight, we arrived in Costa Rica a little worn down but happy to be in Costa Rica again. We checked into the Hotel Don Carlos and walked around the city a little before turning in. Tortuga Island, Gulf de Nicoya The next morning we awoke early to go on a tourist trip that the hotel offered. We walked over to meet our tourist bus, which after picking up several other tourists, drove us out to Puntarenas on the Gulf of Nicoya on the North Pacific side of Costa Rica. It was a long bus ride; we passed many plantations and some were shade grown coffee, though the amount of shade varied considerably. We drove out onto a thin band of land that stretched out into the water. In the mangrove swamp that was in the protected bay, we saw a large flock of White Ibis as we drove by. When we got to the dock, we were loaded onto a catamaran complete with tropical drinks (not free), platers of fresh fruit, and music to round off the ambiance. We felt like tourists, but it was sort of nice being pampered this way. On the island, several activities were offered. There was a zip line and snorkel gear available (for a fee). We ended up paying a small fee to walk through the dry forest. The forest was nice as was swimming in the water and walking along the white sand beach. Back on the boat, we were taken by a bird island reserve. Hundreds of seabirds were circling or resting on the island. It would have been an interesting place to see more, but we only had a drive by look. The bus ride back was long and rainy. They took a very small road because the main road was backed up. Tired, we were happy to get back to the hotel to rest up for the next day. Rara Avis We took a short taxi ride from the hotel to the Caribe bus terminal the next morning. We arrived early and grabbed breakfast at one of the vendors. After unsuccessful attempts to ask the bus driver to let us off at Horquetas, we were wary after descending from the over the cloud forest. Apparently, we managed to get the only driver, who hasn’t heard of Rara Avis or Horquetas, either that or we were pronouncing it incorrectly. When we approached Horquetas, the driver pulled us to the front seats. We pull out the map the other passengers decide to help out so helpful to these gringo tourists The driver drops us off one stop too early. We walked and it all turned out just fine. We met a local couple waiting at the Rara Avis office for the tractor, which will take us up to the lodge. Turns out they rode in the same bus as us; they just knew when to get off. Oh well. Suppose we got a nice tour of Horquetas. Plus, we got to witness the cloacal kiss of Montezuma’s Oropendolas. As we waited for the tractor, I did a little bit of birding. The tractor finally showed up. It was carrying a group of French tourist. They arrive soaked and covered in mud. I pulled my poncho out of my bag. Soon we were on the tractor… it’s not quite what I expected. Saying it’s very bumpy is an understatement. Somehow I did manage to identify a white and a gray hawk, without binoculars. I think I would have ended up with two black eyes, if I made an attempt to actually use them during our rocky accent. We finally arrived at Rara Avis. Lunch, as with all of the meals there, was very filling and satisfying. The only problem I had with the dining hall was the one night a cicada hit me in the head - twice. Mike, our guide, leaded us to our river cabin. We had it all to ourselves the entire stay, well so to speak - aside from the bugs in our bathroom. But the cabin’s deck had a truly breathtaking view and the feeling of being isolated in the rainforest was phenomenal. I loved being woken up at 5:30 each morning to the calls of tanagers, warblers, and wrens. It was so fulfilling to just sit out there in the rocking chairs and absorb the rainforest. Our first few days at Rara Avis were filled with rain. Seemed like nonstop pounding rain. It’s the kind of rain that doesn’t want to make you lift your head (or you’d drown), and let alone my binos not that there were many birds willing to come out from the cover. In between torrential rains, the birds did show themselves. And they were true jewels to be seen (if they’d hold still enough). The mixed flocks were mind-boggling a whirlwind of unbelievable colors and sounds. And just as I was about to identify one, they’d all amazingly vanish into the rainforest. Of course the cloudy bright sky washes out all color when you’re trying to identify them from hundreds of feet below… I didn’t exactly like identifying birds by the color of their feet But over the next few days I did get some great looks at the tanagers, dacnises, euphonias, hummingbirds, etc. I watched the mixed flocks picking berries and eating all but the skin, gleaning for bugs, and harassing each other. We went on a few hikes with our guide, sure he got us lost once, but he pointed out a few cool things and we learned some neat things. We saw common tent-making bats roosting under a chewed up heliconia leaf. Along the Tigre trail, he found a palm salamander that must have gotten washed down from all the rain. He also pointed out a resident bat falcon that we watched through my scope as it feasted on its breakfast. The bullet ants’ nest was interesting and scary at the same time. There were a lot of fascinating things there, though admittedly I was somewhat disappointed in the wildlife. I suppose I was expecting it to be “wilder.” I guess I also compared it to Corcovado, which is the height of Costa Rican wildlife. Still I really relished being isolated in that little world of Rara Avis. We didn’t see any poisonous snakes, just a red-bellied leaf litter snake and that was fine with me. I think it was too wet to see any snakes, that and we weren’t looking too hard, just enough not to get in the path of one. On a night hike (the night it wasn’t raining), we found a wood thrush roosting in a tree. We also found a fresh water crab probably the size of an adult Dungeness crab. Quite the surprise! It took my mind a couple of seconds before it registered what I was seeing. And then there were the mosquitoes and horse flies. Nasty annoying biting insects If it weren’t for the DEET I think I wouldn’t have made it out a live. You’d think the rain would keep them away, but once the rain would stop just for a few seconds they would appear. It's amazing how well they'd fine that one spot you forgot to cover. One day the clouds parted and the giant yellow orb decided to show it self. Vultures and hawks could actually circle the heat columns. The river finally calmed down to a level that we could swim in the waterfall pools. The water was too cold for me to get in, but it was fun to dunk our feet in the water. But, after six days of fun, it was inevitable that we’d have to leave this little corner of paradise. We hiked back out to El Plastico, the research station on the edge of the primary forest, to wait for the tractor. I staked out a spot among the berry trees watching the birds dart to and from each branch. I finally settle upon a table on the second story balcony of the lodge and was amazed the number and variety of birds. I think I may have seen as many birds just sitting there for 2 hours than I saw at Rara Avis for 5 days. I got some excellent views of the birds, being at eye level and was pleasantly surprised to find new birds foraging every once and a while. A pair of keel-billed toucans showed up and one flew with in 10 feet of me. Their amazing costumes make up for their somewhat clumsy takeoffs and lands. Finally, we left Rara Avis and continued on to Selva Verde lodge near Puerto Viejo de Sarapique. I had many hesitations about this and those were pretty much confirmed when we pulled into what looked like (even at night) a Disneyland resort. All the landscaping was very well groomed and manicured. I suppose the lodge didn’t like the idea of having poisonous snakes lurking close to the old gringo cash cow tourists. Nonetheless, we checked in and I was somewhat shocked as we flipped on the lights, walking into our room. The walls were covered in fluorescent hot pink and didn’t look attractive at all (if hot pink could look good). Even the cockroach on the wall looked a little confused it probably did look like a good place in the dark. But we settled in and found out about the laundry service at $1 per pound we couldn’t say no. Plus, who likes the idea of taking home a bag of smelly/molding clothes? The food there was blasé. Didn’t seem like real tico food though they claimed it was cooked by local women. I think it was about as real as chop suey is Chinese. At least they had the brown (tamarind) sauce. We walked around during the evening. Down by the river Sarapique, we spotted bright eye shine coming from across the river. It was definitely an owl by the eye movement and the fact that it was so bright. But even with a night scope it was impossible to identify. The morning was surprising; there were birds everywhere. The lodge puts out feeding stations (bananas), so all the oropendolas, tanagers, and orioles eat until their hearts content or at least until the food runs out. After a little birding, we were whisked off to a boat tour on the Rio Sarapique. I felt a little foolish standing out like such a tourist the boat ride seems to be the pinnacle of it. But it turned out not to be so bad. We were the only ones on the boat. A local guide/boat driver, Louis, pointed out the herons, kingfishers, iguanas, caymen, turtles, howlers, and other birds along the way. The highlights were the long-nosed bats roosting on the side of a tree and a two-toed sloth with a baby. Aside for already knowing where the bats and sloths could be located, he had great eyes for finding the other wildlife. I thought we stood out as tourists, floating down the river in a canopy-covered boat. But then we saw a boat full of white older people. They had a white guide plus the local boat driver. When their guide pulled out the microphone and his voice boomed over the river, we were so thankful of our guide’s simple point and show with minimal talk. We returned to the lodge after the two-hour boat ride and decided to check out the primary forest the lodge boosted about. A gate guarded the entrance to the bridge, which lead to the forest. It was unlocked by a guide, who we saw leading a tourist couple in that morning. We walked on a long suspension bridge over the river only to find a second locked gate in front of the forest. We inquired about the locked gate and were informed that the only way to go into the forest was with a guide, conveniently available for $25/person. They made some excuse of a previous group getting lost in the forest and having to send a rescue crew to find them For the rest of the day we lounged around and crossed the street to their secondary forest, where we puttered around for a bit. We made our way back to the river to see if the owl would show up again. I sat by the river and watched flocks of 5-15 cattle and snowy egrets go down river to roost. Occasionally, some cormorants, parrots, and herons would pass by as well. Two scarlet macaws flew over the rainforest; I got just a good enough look at them through my binos to identify them, unmistakable. Probably one of the very few remaining pairs living on the Caribbean slope. The next morning I spent birding again. I found an excellent spot to just stand at and watch the birds as they foraged in the trees waiting for the bananas to be put out. I was happy to see the red-capped and white-collared manikins as well as olive-backed euphonias. By this point in the trip, I have been come fairly familiar with the tanagers, euphonia, and other birds. And was able to enjoy watching the birds individually, instead of scrambling to identify every flash of color. Originally, we were planning to take the bus back to San Jose, but had to take a cab to the bus station. Our taxi driver, Ronnie, offered to take us back for $50. The thought of not having the concerns of our last bus ride was appealing and we took the offer. We returned to the Don Carlos without much trouble well Ronnie didn’t exactly know where he was going (don’t blame him). But we got back safely. With still time on our hands, we decided to check out the San Jose zoo. After figuring out how to actually get into the zoo (there was only one entrance), we shelled out the hefty fee of 1,800 colones (~$4.50) for the both of us. The zoo was small. The cages were minimal sort of like the 60’s US version lots of bars, concrete, and sticks. About the best set up was the reptile/amphibian exhibit there were only 6 or 7 terrariums, but they had live plants and looked more natural. They didn’t have a whole lot of animals from outside Costa Rica lions, tigers, and some North American raptors, which were stuffed into two small aviaries. They had a couple of tapirs, lots of coatimundis, spider monkeys, lots of parrots and macaws, capuchin monkeys, and some of the cats. The place has a lot of potential and at least shows the locals all the animals in their own country. The next day was our return trip to Seattle the day after we’d have to return to work we were not looking forward to going home. I hope to one day return to Costa Rica or perhaps travel to neighboring Central American countries and eventually South American countries. The wealth of bird and wildlife await and I look forward to exploring. Pura Vida Top
Top Bird List
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